Greetings to all from Edinburgh – it’s been a while since our last update, so you’ll have to put up with this novel length blog entry – you might want to schedule a few days in your schedule to read it. Either that or save it to the next long weekend!
I’ll pick up from where Brad left off in Aberdeen (every time I say ‘Aberdeen’ I can’t help but think of that BNZ ad – “wee Hamish did not stop crying from Aberdeen to Auckland”! In fact, I’ve been driving Brad mental by repeating it every two minutes). After a nice night’s rest in comparatively luxurious accommodation, we set off towards Fort Augustus – a wee town right on Loch Ness. Of course we didn’t just drive straight there (what would be the fun in that?) and took a more scenic route through the beautiful Highlands, as well as a couple of hours detour at a beautiful town called Braemar. The Scottish Highlands are stunning and you can see why people refer to them as ‘the real Scotland’.
We eventually arrived at our hostel, set up camp and headed off to explore the town. Dinner was delightful – fish and chips (the fish here is beyond belief) and.... a macaroni and cheese pie – a traditional Scottish dish (definitely enjoying stuffing my face with these delicious national treasures, and don’t even have to feel like a pig as I can fob it off as ‘all part of the travelling experience’). We then popped back to our hostel for a few minutes to grab a jacket as we had decided to head out on a boat tour of the Loch Ness, when we bumped into a friend from back home. Such a small world as she’s from Morrinsville and the last place you’d expect to see someone is in a tiny town in rural Scotland!
The tour of Loch Ness was great and I’m pleased to say that we did in fact spot the infamous Nessie. Although you can only see her in the far distance I’ve attached the photo to this blog as proof, as I know you’ll all no doubt disregard my claims! As you can see the proof is in the pudding! (Speaking of pudding, the dessert here is even more amazing than the macaroni and cheese pies – gooey chocolate fudge cake is on every corner, as well as a myriad of other delicious cakes – including my new fav gooey caramel and apple toffee cake with custard).
When we got back to our hostel we were disappointed to learn that the place had been overrun with a bus tour of Americans. Now I pride myself on being a non-judgemental person and absolutely hate any form of prejudice, but in the short month and a bit we have been travelling I have been disappointed to learn that I am a wee bit racist – in fact, I’d just about go as far to say that I find Americans really quite intolerable. Canadians – brilliant, Americans – rubbish! So to find that the cosy Morag’s lodge on Loch Ness had been infested by Yanks was quite upsetting, especially when one girl, after asking where I was from, replied “Ohhhhh Hamilton – that’s New Zealand’s gumboot capital”. I smiled politely and replied with, “close – but that’s Taihape”. Imagine my shock when she quickly told me that I was wrong, and it was “definitely Hamilton”. I just sat there with my mouth open like a fish as she slinked away smirking at her friends (each one louder and larger than the last)! Now, I’m a little bit nervous about airing this prejudice aloud (especially online), and I’m sure there are lovely Americans out there, but unfortunately they weren’t in Loch Ness.
My sulking did have a brief respite when I overheard/ eavesdropped on a conversation between two Americans on this tour... They were talking about WWII after visiting a military museum in Stirling (been there, done that!), when loud turned to louder and said “my Grandfather was actually killed at Auschwitz”, to which louder replies “I’m sorry to hear that”. Loud then chirps back with: “yeah – he fell of a guard tower!” This is either a great display of dark humour, or a further example of some of the twits that seemed to dominate this tour! I’ll leave you to decide!
Friday we had an early start as we had a huge day of sightseeing, which we decided to start off with a quick dip in the Loch Ness. We tossed this idea to the wind as soon as we realised that it was beyond cold and given I was shivering in jeans and my winter jacket, diving into a lake which is geographically really close to the North Pole, might not be such a good idea! Instead we decided to head off to Glencoe which is a gorgeous part out west and very popular for tramping and skiing – in fact, it’s home to Scotland’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, and was the site of a gory massacre of the MacDonald highland clan back in the day... Very interesting stuff, and after stopping at the massacre monument we decided to head to the base of the mountain where we decided to embark on a wee tramp which had been suggested by our friend Ed at St Andrews... Unfortunately things didn’t go according to plan and rather than hike to a pretty Scottish waterfall we opted for a two hour snooze in the car! The sleep was much needed and we woke up feeling much refreshed – I blame those Americans for a rough night’s sleep!
Next on the list was the recommended Oban, which alongside Stirling, is one of my favourite places in Scotland. It’s a town situated on the West and is Scotland’s seafood capital and gateway to the Isle’s. We spent a lovely few hours exploring this wee gem of a town and eating the most beautiful seafood we have ever tasted in our lives. We both ordered mussels and have never enjoyed a meal so much in our lives. I LOVE Oban and would definitely come back on our way to the Isle’s.
From here our destination was mighty Glasgow, or Glas Vegas, to spend some time with our friend Vicky and her partner Mike. It was a two hour drive from Oban, not including a beautiful stop at Loch Lomond where we again attempted a swim and failed miserably. We arrived at Vicky and Mike’s apartment at around 4pm, and spent a few hours chatting and sipping at cider.
Our trip to Glasgow coincided with the Westend festival, which is an annual arts and comedy festival. Vicky and Mike had the good sense to book tickets to a comedy festival, as well as dinner beforehand at a great little Scottish restaurant. We really appreciated not having to make a decision, and had an absolute whale of a time. Brad and I had mussels again for dinner (we’ve got quite a taste for them), washed down perfectly with a few glasses of pear cider. The comedy festival was absolutely brilliant and we couldn’t help but think of Dad and Kim, as you would have absolutely loved it. Scottish humour is utterly hilarious and even though I could barely understand the host (he was a “real Glaswegian Mike said”), the parts I did get left me doubled over. Brad managed to catch everything, which was amazing to me as at times I thought he was speaking in another language! During the Edinburgh festival in August (which Mum and Michelle were a part of last year) they have a similar comedic shows, and we’ve already decided to come back in August with Vicky and Mike to catch some of the comedians in action.
After the show we decided to head back to Vicky and Mike’s apartment to rest our feet for a few moments, before heading out again to dance. Lo and behold, next thing you know it’s 6am, the sun is shining, and we’re all locked in die-hard competition on Nintendo Wii. I aced the 100m sprint at Beijing 2008 (if do say so myself), while Brad excelled at the Hammerthrow. It was here that we learnt that Vicky actually is a national curling champion and plays for Britain – this shut me up as I was practically crowing about my virtual running victory! Brad was also well impressed (very British thing to add ‘well’ in front of practically everything, and I’ve become well attached), and told her that he now had “so much more respect for her!”
The next day, after a full Scottish breakfast which included black pudding, white pudding, square sausage and tatty scones, we headed out for a spot of sightseeing. While Edinburgh is renown for its beautiful cityscape and historical points of interest, Glasgow is referred to as the ‘muscle of Scotland’, and we had a great time exploring the cultural side of Glaswegians. After visiting the Kelvingrove museum (the most visited museum in the United Kingdom outside of London) we headed to Vicky and Mike’s local to watch the football. Perhaps the most prolific thing for me this visit, has been the widespread dislike the Scots have for anything or anyone English. Needless to say the entire pub was rotting for England to lose and whenever Germany scored, the crowd literally went wild. It was great fun – especially when the bar muted the television during England’s national anthem, much to the distress of the very few English fans in the pub, with one screaming out “turn it up tossers!” It was fantastic experiencing the Glaswegian way of life first hand, and can definitely imagine living in Glasgow. Apparently someone could knife you one minute, then be your best friend the next – we loved it!
After the rugby, Brad and Mike stayed on for a few drinks with some of his friends, followed by a curry. I headed off with Vicky to her weekly girl’s night with some of her friends from Uni. It was a lovely night and I was enthralled in their conversations. I was particularly interested in talk about their upcoming weddings (one girl had just got married and the other was about to) – they’re so different to NZ nuptials and weddings are very traditional – kilts, hymns and very religious. One girl had a bit of a dilemma as her and her fiancĂ© are different religions, meaning it made their choice of church venue very difficult. They decided to opt for a ‘humanist’ service where the write their own vows – quite unheard of over here! I had a grand old time telling them that a wedding in NZ usually involved someone throwing a CD on and bringing out a pig on a spit! They have five courses and a band playing their first dance (no downloaded copy of some typical love song for the Scottish!). I had a lovely time, as did Brad, and met some really lovely people.
This morning we set off for Edinburgh, after a wee explore of Glasgow’s city centre – very nice and you can see why it was awarded the ‘city of architecture’ title. Little interesting fact for you – Edinburgh has a population of about 450,000 while Glasgow has over one million inhabitants...
We arrived in Edinburgh at around 11am (it’s only 40 minutes away from Glasgow so the drive isn’t too arduous) and just so happened to drive past the army barracks where Mum and Michelle stayed during their time in Edinburgh last year. It was a real bonus and I was pleased to note that it was exactly how I imagined it! After arriving at our hostel, we set off for the city centre – particularly the Royal Mile where we had decided to embark on another free walking tour, which we have come to love so much. The tour covered Edinburgh’s highlights and has given us a list our arms length of places we’d like to visit tomorrow. As we aim for this blog to be educational, I have included a few facts about Edinburgh and its grisly history for your perusal below...
• Thieves caught stealing in Edinburgh used to get nailed to the town centre’s monument for a toital of 24 hours. There they were subjected to torture by the townspeople, which included people literally throwing their bed pans over them. The easy way out was to rip your ear off, meaning for the rest of your life you’d be known as a thief, wouldn’t be able to get a job and would therefore have to work as a pirate, where your life expectancy was about six months as you’d most likely die from tuberculosis or syphilis.
• J K Rowling lives in Edinburgh and she wrote the Harry Potter books whilst strolling through the Royal Mile, seated in cafes and the Greyfriars kirkyard (a big cemetery where you can see gravesites which she has obviously named characters after).
• Greyfriars kirkyard is home to Edinburgh’s most haunted building – the tomb of Charles Mackenzie (who was a horrible man and persecuted 8000 people for their religion). He died hundreds of years ago, but his peaceful slumber was ‘interrupted’ when s homeless man broke into his tomb, as he needed a place to sleep. He woke when the floor of the tomb caved in and he fell right down next to the bones of Mr Mackenzie. Since then his ghost has said to have attacked over 500 people... I’m sure more than a few of you are feeling a bit sceptical, so I have included another fact for you below...
• A few years ago the BBC came to Greyfriars kirkyard to film an exorcism of Mr Mackenzie’s tomb after an outcry of alleged attacks. The exorcist got 15 minutes into his exorcism before he died of a heart attack right then and there, and the camera man had a really bad car accident that day and was left in a coma... Still sceptical?
• But it’s not all dark and dismal at Greyfriars kirkyard, as there also lies the tomb of Bobby – a wee dog who didn’t leave his dead master’s grave for over 14 years (before the wee lad died himself). To this day people come to the kirkyard to visit Bobby’s grave and a statue erected in his honour is the most photographed statue in Edinburgh!
• A few hundred years ago they hanged anyone for the slightest of sins and Mary Dickson was sentenced to death by hanging after she concealed her pregnancy (it was very illegal to do so for some reason). After being hanged for seven minutes, she was nailed into a coffin and transported to the graveyard. On the way there, the fellow driving the truck heard a few noises. After taking a closer look he was shocked to find Mary Dickson jumping out of her coffin in a rather hysterical state. So of course, he jumps on the coffin and transports her back to the town centre to be hanged. Just as the poor woman was about to be put through the same jazz all over again, someone shouts out that she in fact can no longer be killed. Under Scottish law someone cannot be punished for the same crime twice – in fact it’s illegal. So Mary, who was sentenced to death and was hanged, is now a free woman. She buys a house overlooking the town centre and brought comfort to criminals for the rest of her days as just as they were about to be killed, she’d shout out “don’t worry – it’s not so bad. I survived it!”
After our tour we set off in Fergus for ‘Arthur’s Seat’ – a mountain overlooking the town. Making up for our laziness at Glencoe, we climbed to the top and were rewarded with a stunning view of the city.
All our late nights and lack of good quality sleep has left us shattered, so tonight we’re keeping it pretty quiet. We were originally going to set off on a ghost tour of the city, but it’s now freezing and raining a bucket, so at this stage we’re opting to stay in. Tomorrow we’ll head down the Royal Mile again, explore the castle and pop to the museum, which is supposedly brilliant. I’m also desperate to try a traditional Scottish dish, and while we’ve tried everything else under the sun, I’ve saved the best for last – macaroni cheese and chips. I kid you not – it’s actually a national dish! Another national dish is the deep fried Mars bar – it originated in Scotland can you believe. Will have to sink my teeth into one of them as well! Brad, on the other hand, is focused on the sausages and black pudding (each to their own – although I did make a good attempt at chewing my way through a slab, until all of a sudden I couldn’t forget the fact that I was eating blood and couldn’t stomach another mouthful)!
Our flight leaves tomorrow and we have an action-packed day back in London on Wednesday. I’m meeting with a recruitment agent in the morning, we’re off to see Wicked in the afternoon, and then I’m off to meet with the parents of a few children I’ll be looking after for a week, while their full-time Nanny takes a spot of leave. Phew – will need another holiday to recover from our exhausting few weeks.
Love to everyone back home and thinking of you always!
xxx