12 May, 2013

Skye High

It comes as no surprise that we were very keen to return to Scotland, after our initial road trip coming up three years ago, as well as a few other trips to the bonny land for good measure (or 30+ for Brad given he used to work up there often).  So when Cara announced she was coming over to visit us and was keen to head to Scotland for the first time, we jumped at the chance and knew immediately we were keen to head out West. Last time we met a delightful wee Scotsman who told us to get out West as fast as we could and even better, if we could head to the Isles. The trouble is with the nearest airport being Glasgow or Inverness; the Isle of Skye (recently voted the third best island in the world) isn’t exactly accessible. Not one to let this stop us, we arrived into Glasgow Friday night, met Cara at the airport, who had flown out earlier that morning, and set off for Oban – a three hour drive away. We had been to Oban before and loved it and given it is relatively close to Skye, we thought it would be a nice place to stop for the night and show Cara. Brad did a great job navigating tiny rural roads in the early hours while Cara and I dozed, so before we knew it we were in Oban.

The next morning after an inclusive breakfast overlooking the ocean, we packed up the car and hit the streets for an hour, wandering around and showing the place to Cara. Oban is a gorgeous wee town, right on the ocean, with the most delicious seafood – including the best mussels I have still had to this day.


 With a three hour drive ahead we hit the road, only to find ourselves stopping every few minutes for photos. The Scottish landscape is so stunning, especially when you’re surrounded by the snow-covered highlands – cést beau! One of the most memorable stops was at Fort William where we thought we’d stop for a quick photo of Ben Nevis – the highest mountain in Scotland – when we were distracted by the most beautiful Highland Cows ever! We spent about 15 minutes feeding these gorgeous wee devils, taking photos and petting them. I love these cows – they’re so cute and make me want to become vegetarian!

 
Poor Brad was driven mental by Cara and I for the next two hours as we screeched for him to pull over every two seconds for another photo. Sitting in the car then jumping out proved to be bad for the body temperature as it was absolutely freezing outside – a harsh reminder that we were still in the middle of winter!

 
 
We stopped for lunch at a gorgeous wee roadside hotel/ pub, home to over 200 types of whiskey, and in true Taylor-Hollard style, we stuffed our face despite not even being slightly hungry. Not to let this stop us, we carried on only to pull over a few hundred metres up the road when we spied the postcard Isle of Skye view in front of us – Eilean Donan Castle. Nek minute... photo shoot.

 
 
We soon crossed over the bridge to the Isle of Skye, where we had an easy drive to our gorgeous wee hotel right in the city (and I use that term loosely) Portree. We had a huge room to share and after a quick rest, we set off on foot to explore the gorgeous wee town, which sits right on the harbour and is as quaint as can be.

 
 
That night we nestled down and had a delicious dinner in our hotel, which actually doubled as a bustling restaurant for the locals, before retiring up to bed where I stayed awake all night reading then coughing – lovely! 
After a restless night sleep for me and a lengthy sleep for Brad and Cara, we had a delicious breakfast of salmon/ Scottish breakfasts for the Hollards, fuelling our bodies for a gorgeous day of sightseeing. To say it was chilly, is a bit of an understatement, but we braved the weather and drove all around the island, stopping to take in the breathtaking views wherever possible, including a crazy reverse waterfall where the wind was so intense that it blew water straight up the cliff, resulting in a high pitched noise, alongside gustily sprays.  So amazing! It was also a spot where Scottish dinosaur remains were found, so there we go!

 
 
We drove around for a few hours before heading back to Portree for some hot chips and chocolate, followed by a quick nap at our hotel. Just getting plenty of rest for an afternoon session at a pub we had been told about by our hotel, where we drank a few pints while watching local musicians play up a storm. In fact some of them played so intensely they knocked glasses off the table with the vibrations! It was pretty spectacular and there wasn’t a tourist in sight so it felt pretty neat... Even when a toothless family came in and had a few drinks. I don’t want to judge, but why they wouldn’t get this sorted I’ll never know – especially in the UK where dental work is government funded and they’d sort you out with a spanking new pair of teeth for a few bob. How it even gets to the stage where all of your teeth rot is beyond me. Surely when one tooth started to go a bit funky you’d question your dental hygiene practices? Come on people – it’s not hard! Brush twice daily and floss – where’s the secret?

 
Another cosy dinner at our hotel and we slept soundly.

 

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast of Scottish oats, we reluctantly packed our bags and set off beneath a gorgeous bright blue sky, but a biting temperature to accompany it! We had a full plan for the morning and wanted to explore a particularly picturesque part of the island, home to the famous Tallisker Whiskey distillery.

 

We found our way, after stopping every few minutes to grab a photo of the gorgeous view, and despite the early hour we sucked it up and had a few cheeky sips of whiskey. Well Brad did, while Cara and I gagged our way through ours – gak!

 
 
We set off in search of the infamous Fairy Pools, which we had all read a bit about, but their location was relatively undercover. We ended up taking a wrong turn, which turned out to be a very right one when we found ourselves at a little tea room, which was actually someone’s living room, with a beautiful view overlooking the mountains. Not only did we get to feast on delicious homemade cake, but the owner gave us explicit instructions on how to find the pools while we looked at his various photos of the island and the wildlife. He was a budding photographer so it was a real treat to check out his amazing work, while we ate his wife’s amazing chocolate cake!  Don’t mind if we do kind, elderly couple!

 

Thanks to the instructions, we soon found ourselves at the Fairy Pools, which, oh my god, words cannot express how cool these were. We parked the car, in awe of the view ahead of us – a huge field with snow-covered mountains in the distance, with a dusty trail encouraging us to venture on down the hill in search of the pools.  We eagerly followed, enjoying the blustery cold and fresh mountain air – it was the kind of weather that makes you feel very alive. Perfect! We all ran around a bit like headless chickens for the first half hour really, not yet at the fairy Pools, but blown away by the view, as well as sugared up from the cake, torn between soaking it all up and taking photos! It was an adventure in itself just getting there.
 
 

Cue more frantic ‘OMG, OMG’ cries from us all as we saw how beautiful these wee rock pools beneath the mountains were. Apparently in summer you can somehow swim between pools into underground caves – I can’t imagine how and given the pools were iced over we certainly weren’t going to try it. Rather we spent a few hours running to and fro, taking photos of one another, as well as throwing little rocks into the pools and trying to break holes in ice. I amused myself for far too long, picking up pieces of ice from the pool and throwing them, watching them smash like glass. The end result was throbbing fingers, practically frost-bitten from the cold, as well as a bemused family who had been watching me smash ice for half an hour to no end of amusement.

 
 
 
Brad was even brave/ foolish enough to dip his entire head into the pool.

 

After a couple of hours we reluctantly had to drag ourselves away. A five hour drive awaited us, before a night flight out of Glasgow back to London. To make matters worse, we had started to hear rumours of intense snow storms in London, which we soon realised weren’t just rumours as we started to drive back and were met with flurries. Despite being here three years, snow is still somewhat of a novelty; however it’s safe to say that with the weather we’ve had this year, the novelty is definitely starting to wear off. Scared with a recent business trip to Madrid, where all flights back home were cancelled, ending in massive delays and diverted planes where I got home 12 hours later than expected, I was particularly concerned that we weren’t going to get home at all.
 
The drive went smoothly and we had a few breaks/ snow fights, thank you Brad, and we ended up back in Glasgow in perfect time. Just enough time to check in and realise that, lo and behold, our flight had been delayed by four hours. Cheers Easy Jet! With plenty of time up our sleeves, we sat down to the worst dinner we’d had in a long time, with truly the worst service. Service so bad they actually turned off the heating when we had just got our mains to try and hurry us out! They succeeded and we had a long wait at the airport, before we were finally able to fly out, far later than expected.

 When we landed in London in the early hours, we had a bit of a wait for the bust to take us back to the car park – a wait in an intense downpour of snow, where I started to realise that this was going to make my already mild flu/ cold quite a bit worse. Snow was coming down in huge chunks, but we eventually made it back home, with the hour drive taking quite a bit longer, so that by the time we got home there was hardly time to close my eyes before I was up again! That said, I wasn’t up for long and was soon back to bed with a feverish, aching cold that made me more than a tad grumpy! A rather unfortunate end, to a pretty perfect four day Scottish adventure! Worth every little bit of sickness though – the Isle of Skye is incredible!
xxxx

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